The Masa Movement Project
Leslie’s Stories and Videos about Heirloom Masa
In March of 2021, I became interested in a fledgling masa movement developing across the U.S. Chefs, aficionados and entrepreneurs had become passionate about nixtamalizing heirloom corn from Mexico, grinding it into masa and making delicious things and businesses using it. There’s also a home-cook analog — newly available masa harina made from the heirloom corn. Interest became obsession, and my deep dive into the subject — covering the people who nixtamalize, the cool businesses springing up around masa, and the endless ways to cook with it — has commandeered a good chunk of my life and work. That’s the Masa Movement Project.
The project is ongoing, including a series of stories at Cooks Without Borders called The Masa Life. Dallas-based chef Olivia Lopez (co-owner of Molino Olōyō) has been an important collaborative contributor to the project.
READ “"Masa’ is a must-have cookbook for Mexican cooking aficionados and aspirants,” Cooks Without Borders (CWB), November 5, 2022
READ “Next-wave masa: A forward-looking purveyor and passionate chefs bring heirloom corn from Mexico to their tables and yours,” Cooks Without Borders (CWB), March 16, 2021
READ “For out-of-this-world pozole rojo, start with dried heirloom corn from Mexico, then nixtamalize (yes, you can!),” CWB, March 16, 2021
WATCH “Culture Dive: The Next-Wave Masa Movement with Masienda Founder Jorge Gaviria and Chef Olivia Lopez,” Cooks Without Borders, March 17, 2021
READ “Meaningful masa: Dallas chef Olivia Lopez makes magic with heirloom Mexican corn,” The Dallas Morning News (possible paywall), June 4, 2021
READ “The Masa Life: How heirloom masa harina and a new (old!) world of beans can transform everyday eating,” CWB, July 28, 2021
READ “Here’s Why You’re Seeing More Masa on Restaurant Menus,” Bon Appetit, Sept. 29, 2021
READ “Cooks Without Borders hit the road to spotlight chefs and entrepreneurs doing fabulous things with heirloom masa,” CWB, Sept. 29, 2021
READ “How to make tetelas, those tasty, triangular masa packets that are about to become super trendy,” CWB, Sept. 29, 2021
READ “Time for tamales: Dallas tortillería Molino Olōyō shares recipes made with heirloom masa,” The Dallas Morning News (possible paywall), co-authored with Olivia Lopez, Dec. 1, 2021
READ “The Masa Life: Making out-of-this-world tamales is totally within your power” CWB, Dec. 8, 2021
READ “Crunchy, light and fun, heirloom-corn tostadas will set you free this summer” CWB, May 21, 2022
READ “'Masa' is a must-have cookbook for Mexican cooking aficionados and aspirants” CWB, November 5, 2022